by Robert Rems

We took the convenient 38 bus from the hotel to Victoria Station for our trip to Lancing, where we picked up the rental car and drove to Portsmouth, where we caught the ferry to Fishbourne. Arriving on the Isle of Wight, we first headed to the ASDA supermarket to pick up a bottle of sherry, then to the Travelodge in Newport. It was a typical Travelodge, basic but comfortable.

Then off to dinner at Thompson’s Restaurant, which was a real treat.

There are 3 dining rooms, one small one facing the kitchen and two on the floor above.

The menu is short, but the dishes are very creative and delicious. After two amuse-bouches, we had a rabbit croquette with some baby rabbit parts, and a mackerel ceviche with radishes and a pastry crust. For the main courses we chose the roast beef with a chicken and ricotta filled pasta and escargots, and sea bream with vegetables and samphire. Next came a pre-dessert of a take on lemon meringue, and then we shared a peach melba. With a bottle of Rosso Piceno and tip, the total was about 150 GBP.

Saturday, 9/23

Leaving Newport in the morning, we visited Osborne House, a home of Victoria and Albert, which they built themselves, and her constant retreat where she died in 1901.

After that, we had a lovely lunch at Murray’s Seafood in West Cowes. Despite the very unassuming facade and simple decor, the food is fabulous. It was recommended to us by our friends Carl and Jeffrey, who had been advised of it by the now late Lord Montagu, a well-known gourmet, and who despite having been married twice and fathered 3 children, was gay as all getout.

We ordered from the catch of the day menu. I started with 6 oysters, which were huge and delicious, very similar to the Pemaquids we have on our trips to Maine. Stanley had mussels in a garlic cream sauce, which were very plump and fresh. For the main courses, I had a whole plaice and he had bream with samphire. They were both extremely fresh and full of flavor. With a nice bottle of pinot grigio rose and 2 coffees, and tip, the total was 105 GBP. We were very surprised to be only one of two tables for lunch, while some other nearby restaurants were very busy. This is a gem, hidden in plain sight.

https://www.murrays.co/

Following lunch, we took the ferry back to Portsmouth and drove to Crawley, where we stayed at another Travelodge.

After a very pleasant overnight flight on United economy plus, we arrived in London early Wednesday morning. As happened last year, the food was absolutely awful but they were generous with the wine so that made it a bit more pleasant.

Wednesday, 9/20

The Heathrow Express got us to the hotel quickly and easily. We walked the short distance from the Holborn tube station to the Thistle Holborn, aka the Kingsley. Dropping the bags off, we then sat in the bar for a couple of hours until lunchtime.

We took the number 55 bus from directly opposite the hotel to Great Portland Street and walked the few blocks to the restaurant, aptly named Portland.

The 49 GBP 3-course menu is a bargain for the quality of the food. The menu had changed slightly from the above one posted in the window. We ordered the following:

Sweetbreads

Sea bass with apple, celery and tarragon

Braised pork shoulder

Roast lamb

Apple and greengage (plum) pie

Peach parfait

With 2 glasses each of a rose from the Basque region of Spain, the bill totaled 153 GBP including a 12.5% service charge.

https://portlandrestaurant.co.uk/

After lunch we stopped into a wine shop just down the street where we picked up a bottle of cream sherry. It began to rain so we ordered an Uber for the short trip back to the hotel, where we were then able to check in. Our room was in the back so avoided street noise and was quite spacious, with a very large bathroom. A nice touch is the HVAC unit so you can set a temperature and get heat or a/c as needed. The location is incredibly convenient to everything, with buses stopping right in front and subway a few blocks over. I just can’t say enough good things about this hotel. For about $550 for 2 nights, it is the best deal I could find in London.

We set off to dinner at the Ivy in heavy rain, so we caught a bus. The Ivy is an old favorite and is as good as ever.

The menu offers a lot of choice and is not terribly expensive. Stanley started with a dressed crab, and I with a crispy duck salad. Main courses were salmon and roasted monkfish, both very nicely prepared. Wines are prices but I found a very good Cotes du Rhone for 45 GBP.

Service was very professional and the atmosphere is lively. Even though they charge for bread (without informing you beforehand) and add a cover charge and 12.5% service charge, the total came to 156 GBP, really not bad at all.

https://the-ivy.co.uk/?utm_source=LocalGoogle&utm_medium=Organic

Wednesday, 9/20

We woke up early as we had not yet adapted to the time change, and set off for Kew Gardens. It was an easy trip despite a portion of the subway being shut down and we had to complete it by bus. Here are the photos I took of the gardens:

Kew Palace was where George III was inacarcerated to be treated by Dr. Willis for his first bout of madness.

https://www.kew.org/

After the gardens we called an Uber and headed to Hampton Court Palace, first stopping for lunch across the street from the palace at The Mute Swan, a dining pub that I had found in doing my research.

The menu is interesting. We shared an appetizer that was just added that day, crispy pig cheeks with mashed potatoes, roasted garlic, broccoli rabe and a brown sauce. I then had hake with a hollandaise sauce, beets and mashed potatoes, and Stanley had fish and chips. We shared a dessert, a tiramisu, coffee and pistachio mousse, and a bottle of rose from Provence. Everything was excellent and the bill, including service, was only 105 GBP.

https://www.brunningandprice.co.uk/muteswan/

We then crossed the street to the palace.

https://www.hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace/

Back in London, dinner was at Rules, famous for being London’s oldest restaurant. It is also arguably one of the best. The room is stunning and seating is very comfortable.

We started with a crab salad and potted shrimp, then moved on to grouse and guinea fowl. Both were extraordinary, especially the grouse. We chose the cheapest bottle of wine, a Cotes du Rhone, always a reliable choice, for 43 GBP.

For dessert, I had sticky toffee pudding, and Stanley had summer pudding. Both were perfectly executed versions of classic English desserts. The bill, including service, was 192 GBP, and worth every penny.

https://rules.co.uk/

That concludes our 2 days in London. Next up: Isle of Wight

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