Monday, 10/26

After Taormina we drove to Messina where we caught the ferry to Reggio Calabria, where we spent the night at Athena Luxury Rooms. A very comfortable room even included breakfast, for under 60 euros.

After cocktails a block away at Mida, we set off for dinner at Officiana del Gusto, another excellent choice. We were the only English speakers in this busy and popular spot.

The quality of the food was impeccable, He started with meatballs and I had stockfish salad. For mains I had octopus and he had braised beef. We couldn’t resist dessert as they had a pistachio semifreddo, which was as good as the one we had at lunch (love love love pistachio).

With this Calabrian wine and water, the bill was, remarkably. only 100 euros.

Tuesday, 10/27

In the morning we visited the duomo first.

After that we stopped off at the art museum, which was not terribly interesting, so we continued along the Corso Garribaldi to the archaeological museum.

Most of it is dedicated to broken clay pots and metal tools, but what everyone goes to see are the bronze sculptures.

Next came lunch at Drogheria Culinaria, another popular and very busy place.

Again we were the only non-Italians. Stanley began with a plate of prosciutto and cheeses and I had prawn tartare. Next he had stuffed rabbit and I had stuffed squid. For dessert we shared pistachio tartufo. Everything was delicious and we had the best wine of the trip so far, a Duca de ? from Librandi, a producer of Calabrian wines we have been buying at home.

After lunch we headed back to the car and drove to Lamezia Terme, where we checked into the B&B Casa Lissania.

The 2 corsos in Lamezia:

For dinner I chose Merlo Rosso, which turned out to be decent but unexciting so I won’t go into detail.

Wednesday, 10/28

This was a long day of touring, to Rossano and Corigliano.

In Rossano we visited the cathedral.

After that it was time for lunch. We had chosen Sei Ulivi, which is in the town center away from the historic district.

This was an excellent choice. I started with arancini and Stanley had scallops. For mains I had beef filet in a port wine and foie gras sauce and he had gnocchi with mushrooms in a butternut squash sauce. With an excellent bottle of Calabrian wine. water and coffees, the bill was 99 euros.

After lunch we continued on to Corigliano, where we toured the ducal palace, which was fascinating.

Back in Lamezia, we had a terrible time finding a decent restaurant open on Wednesday. I finally came upon Rustic Osteria Contemporanea, which turned out to be excellent, and a major deal.

I had a caprese and he had bruschetta, then I had lamb chops and he had porchetta. We skipped dessert but had limoncello. With a delicious primitivo from Puglia, and water, the bill was just 82 euros.

Thursday, 10/29

We only visited one town, Santa Severina. First the castle.

Then the duomo.

We were too late getting back to Lamezia for lunch, but we were able to have a mini pizza and a mini sandwich, with spritzes, and tiramisu with coffees.

Our dinner plans went bust. The restaurant formerly known as 102 and now Arama Bistrot is only doing private events, but the proprietor was kind enough to serve us dinner, nothing fabulous but decent food.

Friday, 10/30

We drove to Cosenza, where we found a parking garage and walked along the pedestrian street, Corso Mazzini, which is lined with nondescript businesses. We continued on to the Piazza Duomo, where we had a very nice lunch at Calabria Bella.

Stanley began with melon and prosciutto and I had bresaola. Then he had baked lamb and I had veal filet. Everything was top-notch. With a bottle of Calabrian wine, water and coffees the bill was 96 euros. The owner offered limoncello on the house.

After lunch we stopped into the duomo next door.

Back in Lamezia, we went back to Rustic Contemporeana, which we liked so much on Wednesday. It wasn’t quite as good this time, but for 80 euros we aren’t complaining. The dishes were massive but a bit “rustic”.

This concludes our time in Calabria. We enjoyed it very much, though there were some disappointments. The best thing about it was that it was a genuinely Italian experience. We didn’t see or hear Americans, Germans, French etc. If there were tourists they were all Italian.